Saw this in a recent issue of Booklist and couldn't resist passing along the review to you. Sounds like perfect summer reading if you live on the coast (which, incidentally, is where I grew up).
Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing by Stuart Holmes Coleman:
Dude! Hang ten! Don’t wipe out! Such phrases, both quaint and common, have their genesis on the sylvan shores of the Hawaiian islands, home to the ancient and modern sport of surfing. And nowhere has the taming of the waves been more revered or refined than in the tiny, isolated village of Makaha on Oahu’s wild western coast. Led by the aptly named Buffalo Keaulana, a ragtag group of rebels and outlaws, loners and drifters, natives and haoles found solace and sought glory there through the study and mastery of towering walls of water. Inspiring and inspired by the gentle songs of Makaha’s giant Israel “Iz” Kamakawiwo’ole, this renegade village came to embody the peace and power of the ocean. Coleman richly pays homage to the legendary pioneers who elevated surfing from an island pastime to an international competition and shares stories of the great generosity, unwavering courage, and audacious vitality of the surfers who epitomize the deep cultural resonance of the Hawaiian spirit.
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